Friday, March 25, 2011

EDC follow up, now with pictures!

I figured I would put up images of what is actually in my bag since everything is moving over from the old bag to the new one as a follow up from my EDC post. First, the new bag(s) is here, so let's look!

Maxpedition Kodiak Gearslinger
This is the main bag. It is slightly taller and a little less deep than my old bag, but far more pockets. I'll let you explore Maxpedition's site for all the ins-and-outs, but here's mine unloaded for comparison later on.
P3250278
I'm seriously impressed with the construction. The stitching is great, YKK zippers feel solid, and the pocket layout is sensible. It has no real pockets for pens and the like, but that's why I picked out a few other pouches to attach.

EDC Organizer

P3250268
P3250268

This is my solution to no pen slots and the like. It will connect onto the main bag using 2 Blackhawk Speed Clips, which turn out to be quick and easy to use.

FR-1 Pouch
I wanted to move a few things to the outside and my first aid kit was one of them. This was the solution, and gives me room to add a few missing items.
P3250275

Double Magazine Pouch
A difficulty in my old bag was keeping my flashlight and Leatherman. They lived in a side pocket, which made them less speedy to get to without taking the pack off. I picked up this, designed for gun magazines, to hold them both.
P3250276
It has an extra advantages of doubling as a belt pouch for both items and being able to easily come off at the airport.

Universal CCW Holster
I don't actually carry a pistol everyday, but I wanted to try this out as an option for easily carrying my fixed blade knife, as I spoke about here. No picture this time, you'll see it in a minute and it isn't that special. It hooks into the loop fabric in the back pocket on the main bag.

All that stuff!
So, other than a laptop and/or iPad, plus the occasional jacket, here's everything I carry in my old bag.
P3250266
Most of this you can identify from my previous post
A few things I missed, many of which others pointed out in the comments, include a water bottle, tissues, some snacks, and my emergency radio/light. Missing in all this is the first aid stuff. Let's look at that.
P3250272
Again, much of this I mentioned and I'll be doing a med kit post or 2 later on, but the key thing I didn't mention (and motomuffin did) is gloves. Be safe! I also have a tube of super glue in there for sticking cuts back together. Not always pretty, but very effective. Not shown is the piece of moleskin I carry for blisters.

Here it all is in it's pouch
P3250270
and all closed up
P3250269

The knife has had some modification to the sheath (easy to do on this model) and been put into the the holster, so it now looks like this:
P3250280

All zipped up!
Putting everything in the bags, zipping it up, and attaching the external parts to where they belong, here's what we get.
P3250282

You'll note that I put the first aid kit and sheaths off to the side of the bag. This is largely an access bonus but also keeps the bag from sticking too far back from my body. When spun to the front I can easily get to flashlight, multi-tool, and first aid kit.

First impressions
I've only been carrying this rig for a few days, but I already like it. I have easy access to stuff, better organization, and the comfort level is good. We'll see how it fairs over the coming weeks, months, and years!

Tuesday, March 22, 2011

Everyday Carry, or "What's in your backpack?"

What is it?

Whether we think about it or not, we all have some level of what in some circles is called EDC, or EveryDay Carry. This is a term often applied amongst gun enthusiasts to their chosen self-defense weapon, but has been expanded to include those items you make sure you always have on you or very nearby. It is the latter we will be talking about in this post.

Why do it?

The simple fact is there are certain things we need on us in our daily life and many more that would come in handy. Women have been masters of this for years. Think back on all the things your mother could pull out of a purse or handbag at a moments notice! Men, of course, have long resisted the desire to follow suit as it just isn't "macho" enough, but many of us have been carrying backpacks long past our school years. Laptops have become a great excuse to carry more with us without looking like we have a "man-purse", but a recent surge in messenger and sling bags, many with a tactical slant, have made it more acceptable to carry more stuff with us.

While we so often expect to be able to hit a convenience store when we need something, life doesn't always work that way. To be clear, I'm not talking about a "72-hour" or a "Bug Out Bag", which tend to be larger survival style bags. I plan to tackle that at some point, but here I'm speaking of something far more universal and versatile. A few simple things carried in a comfortable bag can make all the difference between a good or bad day!

How did I learn it?

At this point, do I even need to mention Boy Scouts? Seriously, "Be Prepared" sticks in your head! But I honed this over the last 20 years, first in college, then in the working world. My time as an EMT had an immense impact in this area as I learned you want to have everything you are likely to need when you get to a patient, but you can only carry so much, especially into, say, a wrecked vehicle. When I moved into IT and a laptop became something I toted around all the time, I shifted things again. Finally, learning to ride a motorcycle has led me to rely less on what might be in my vehicle (otherwise a large pickup), causing me to have a refined list of things that I never want to be without.

How do you learn it?

I'm going to give you my opinions here, then you should absolutely read what other people say. Mostly, however, you should try it out yourself. Some of this you'll discount immediately, some of it you'll take as gospel, but a lot will be experimentation. Try it out, don't spend a lot upfront, and see what works for you. But put some thought into it, otherwise you end up with more than you bargained for, like so many mothers have done!

The bag - For many of the women out there, you already have a favorite EDC or 2 in the form of a purse. Many, like my wife, don't carry a purse in the traditional sense but a small shoulder bag instead. Some of us favor backpacks or laptop roller bags. I've carried a variety of things over the years, including a waist bag (essentially a big fanny pack). Whatever you settle on is less vital than a few key criteria.
Is it comfortable for you? You're the one who will end up carrying it all the time, so your opinion is the most important. If you will be carrying a lot of weight, like a laptop, this is even more critical.
Is it maneuverable? This is why I moved away from a roller bag for my laptop. I found it was terrible on rough terrain and even slowed me down in the airport. The extra weight of a backpack was worth it.
Does it have space for what you'll be carrying? It seems obvious, but buying a bag then realizing there isn't a pouch that will handle your ever-present hardback book will certainly disappoint. When possible I like to take my largest item to the bag to verify, but when ordering online pay close attention to the dimensions. On the same note, too big will be bulky and lead you not to carry it, or carry too much!
Is it durable? This may not be a big issue for some, but I hate falling in love with a bag then having it fall apart or look terrible after a few months of work. Many fabrics such as canvas, nylon, Codura, and leather hold up well to continued abuse
Can you get to your stuff? Organization is often overlooked. I've passed it over many times myself, and I've watched others have to empty out a bag to find a single thing they wanted. Think about it up front, but realize you can organize in big compartments with smaller pouches and bags.
My current bag is the predecessor of this one, but after about 6 years of constant use it is wearing thin, so will be replaced this week by the Maxpedition Kodiak. I realized I almost never use both straps for the backpack and wanted better organization options, so we'll see how the Kodiak serves.

First aid - One thing I'm big on is having some first aid supplies on hand, no matter who you are or how much you actually know. Band-aids, some gauze and tape, tweezers, and alcohol wipes are a bare minimum. I also find it handy to have a bit of my vital medicine on me at all times, along with some painkillers. If you don't know what to put in a kit or like getting it all together, light and affordable(ish), check out Adventure Medical. They're industry leaders and have a variety of products you can pick up online or at your local EMS or Cabelas. Even if you don't know what to do with the items in the kit, someone around you might, but without the items available their knowledge may be for not. And, of course, take a first aid course! :)

Fire and light - Less people smoke these days (which is a good thing!) but it means few folks have a lighter or matches on them. This is a small, easy item to have on you that comes in handy whether you get stuck in the woods, need to scorch the end of a nylon strap, or sanitize a needle to dig out a splinter. I carry both, and also a magnesium fire-starter, but I'm all about the backup.
Similarly, you never know when you'll need a flashlight. I carry 2 myself, a small keychain-style LED light and a palm-sized tactical (very bright) one. They're great when you lose something under your desk, need to check out an issue with your car, or find yourself in a dark parking lot. I also have a few glow sticks to act as quick area lighting/flares.

Tools and knives - I've talked about pocket knives before, and your EDC is a good place to carry something to back that up. A multi-tool that may be more than you want in your pocket is perfect here and serves a lot of purposes. I also carry a fixed-blade knife in my EDC, but that may be more than most want.
On top of those, I have a few other more survival based items. One of the most used is a cheap poncho. I keep replacing it as it comes out in those moments when I forget a rain coat. A compass is handy, but this is only good if you know how to use one, and best with a map. I also have a small, straw-style water filter which I have yet to use and hope never to do so.

Writing items - This may seem obvious, but having a pen when you - or someone else - needs it is a huge boon. I'd also remind you to carry something to write on besides gas receipts. I have a small Moleskine-style notebook I got at Barnes & Noble with tear-out pages. I've recently gotten back into the habit of carrying a Sharpie as well, a habit from my EMT days. I'm less likely to be writing on people with it now, but it still works on almost any surface you come across.

Defense - We hope never to need it, but it would suck to need it and not have it. I'll skip the whole topic of firearms for another post as it's such a polarizing topic, but I will encourage everyone (even if you do carry a gun) to have some form of defensive spray as a non-lethal option. I won't go into the choosing of pepper spray here, but send you instead to this great site about it. The idea of a self-defense item is not to permanently disable someone, it is to give you time to get to safety. Whether you do that with pepper spray, a taser, a defensive tool like a kubotan, a tactical flashlight, or whatever, just having a way to gain a few seconds to run to your car or a safe building can make a huge difference to you and those who hope you make it home safe. Give it some thought.

Random stuff - There are a few other things I like to carry with me that may not be important to others, but I find useful.
Trash bags - I have about 4 of these at any time, the large, black ones. They make impromptu ponchos, ways to carry wet or dirty clothes, and, of course, work for trash. They could be used for a shelter if you were hard up, but that's an extreme.
Paracord - The mainstay of survivalists everywhere, this thin, light cord works for so many situations. It holds knots well, doesn't stretch easily, and is fairly cheap. Use it to lash something onto the roof of the car, hold something onto your pack, or any number of situations where rope comes in handy. A 50' bundle is small and easy to carry.
Books - I almost always have one with me. Actually, I DO always have my pocket version of the SAS Survival Handbook with me, but I also normally have what I'm reading or my iPad so I can keep myself entertained during long waits. Of course, the Survival Guide has other uses than general reading.
Cards - Nothing cures boredom quicker than a game, in my experience, so a deck of cards is handy when stuck at a slow restaurant or waiting for AAA to come give you a tow. I currently only have a standard deck, but sometimes I carry other quick, small games like Fluxx

What else can you tell me that may not be common knowledge?

I've laid out a mess of stuff here, and I'm hoping others chime in with their experiences. It is worth noting that one bag will not likely serve all of your needs. I've changed what I carry over the years and bags have changed with me. When traveling you may need to pair down to meet space or TSA requirements. This is actually part of what led me to my new EDC bag, specifically the integration of the MOLLE system.

While designed for the military and obviously appealing to the "tacti-cool" crowd, I see a lot of appeal to those of us who travel a lot or need to change up what we carry. As pouches can easily be swapped on or off the webbing, it becomes possible to mix and match to create the perfect bag. Better still, in minutes you can take the pouches with your multi-tool or pepper spray off the bag and tuck them in your checked baggage before heading off through airport security. I'll be putting this bag through its paces in the near future and I'll let you know how the system works out for me.

The single most important thing to remember is that YOU have to carry this day in and out, so build the system that works best for you and don't be afraid to change it when it doesn't.

Tuesday, February 15, 2011

Picking out a sewing machine

What is it?

This is something I get asked about a lot by friends and folks who know I sew. I should likely explain that I have sewn personally and professionally for over 20 years, so it doesn't surprise me to get this question. Most of the time I get this from folks who are new to sewing or want to give a gift to a someone. I think there are some critical things to look for here, and I was reminded recently when my friend Erin asked for input.

Why do it?

I find that many people eventually try their hand at sewing for a variety of reasons. Maybe they are interested in picking up a craft like quilting. Some, especially those into reenacting and living history, want to make their own costumes or period clothing. Still others just want to be able to hem their own pants or repair some items they've had sitting around for ages. Whatever the reason, if you're going to do much more than stitch on a button, most people decide a machine is worth the cost to save a ton of time. While it is true that for thousands of years man clothed himself (or, in most cases, women clothed us) doing each stitch by hand, but folks generally owned less clothing and weren't always trying to fit it around our busy modern life. So, if you think you need one, it helps to know what you need.

How did I learn it?

I learned to sew on my mom's Singer, but when I was 20 and heading back to college, I was given an old Kenmore, built into a table, by a friend's mother who just wanted it gone. That fairly unreliable machine served me until I moved back to PA and...long term borrowed my mother's again. This lead to her giving me a Singer Merit for Christmas. It wasn't until a few years later, when I got serious about making big and heavier things - plus occasionally charging for them - that I bought my first machine. Since that time, I've owned a number of machines and currently have 6 sewing machines, not including the 2 my wife owns, each with their own purpose. I've figured out what works, what doesn't, what you need, and what's really just flash.

How do you learn it?

Like owning a car, much of this is personal, but hopefully I can give you some pointers to ease your path. I'll take the path of someone new to sewing with a few pointers for those of you who may be older hands.

Usage Level - Be realistically on how much you will use this machine. That will have an impact on how much you want to spend. For the casual, once in a great while use, many of the cheap, basic models will serve. If, on the other hand, you intend to sew a lot and/or fabrics that can be tough on a machine, pay a bit more for quality. Rough fabrics can include wool, velvet, velor, leather, and canvas. Some of those seem obviously tough, but fuzzy fabrics like velvet can cause a lot of build up inside the machine's inner workings. Cheaper machines will jam up faster than a better built one as the parts may be weaker or more exposed.

Industrial or Home - Industrials are generally purpose built machines that take up a lot of space and do one task or stitch very well. For the vast majority of people out there, this is unnecessary. I own 3, but currently use none of them since leaving professional costuming. Be aware that some companies use "industrial" as a label on what is really a home model. If it doesn't include a power table and motor, it's a home model.

Stitches - This is often the first thing people see when they look at a new machine. "Wow, this one has 6 zillion stitches!" How many do you need? Realistically, 2. If I'm being downright honest with myself, 80 percent or more of my work is done with the straight and zig-zag stitches. Following that, I think that a blind hem stitch is a big help as this is great on pant legs, skirt hems, and the like. A 3-step zig-zag is another nice one to avoid rolling on certain fabrics. Past this, it's mostly window dressing.
Many people get hung up on an automatic buttonhole stitch. This is a great feature IF you do a lot of buttonholes. For a few hear and there, I don't think they're worth it. In fact, I think new users should consider doing them manually as it's good skill learning and considerable reduces your cost.

Reverse - This is standard these days, but not all reverses are created equal! The reverse lets you back-tack to lock stitches in, but can also be handy when doing buttonholes and decorative work. Many reverses require you to hold down a lever or button to move the needle backwards. Realize that this needs to be done while guiding the fabric, so that if you need to reach across or exert great pressure to perform this function, it may be tough to do regularly. Some more advanced machines allow you to hit a button and switch the current stitch to go in reverse. I feel that most folks will get by with a "hold-down" solution, but if you think there will be a lot of it consider the second option.

Feed Dogs - Fabric is moved through most sewing machines by feed dogs which move the fabric from underneath. There are exceptions, but we're not worrying about them. The point I wish to make here is that sometimes you don't want the fabric to move, either because you're darning, doing embroidery, or some other operation where YOU want to control the movement. This means that the feed dogs need to be circumvented. One option is the use of a plate, often plastic, placed over the dogs. This option, honestly, is horrible and, if possible should be avoided. The plate will break or get lost the first time you use it. Instead, consider a machine where the dogs lower if at all possible. If you think you'll never need to worry about it, take a risk, but you might find yourself regretting it.

Speed - Machines are almost always controlled by a foot pedal. This pedal often acts like a gas pedal in that the harder you push, the faster you sew. Some are little more than an on/off switch and should be avoided. One of the nicest additions to sewing machines in the last 10 or so years is the ability to set a max speed on the machine itself. Thus, no matter how far down you push the pedal, you can only go so fast. For folks just starting out this can be a good way to keep yourself from inadvertently stitching 5 inches past where you intended to be. As a more experienced, high-speed user I find it a wonderful way to slow myself down when I need to be paying more attention. The muscle memory in my foot that says "floor it!" but the slide speed on my Janome says "not so much".

Brand - Here we can get into a lot of trouble. Almost everyone in the US has fond memories of the Singer their mother got from their grandmother and how long that machine lasted. Today, Singer is the low-end offering of SVP, who own Pfaff and Husquavarna Viking. While this doesn't mean they're a bad option, it does mean they aren't the top-of-the-line they once were. Still, for the newer user, consider Singer or Brother, especially if you don't intend to use it a lot. However, if you can find used machines, consider piking up something by Pfaff, Husquavarna, or Janome. They may cost more, but will hold out for a long time. The first machine I bought myself was a Husquavarna Viking which was 10 years old when I got it. I beat that machine into the ground, making 3 period tents out of heavy weight canvas, more wool cloaks than I can count, and finally put it out to pasture after 14 years of, honestly, industrial level use.

Electronic or Mechanical - For durability and general use, nothing beats the mechanical machines. My current go to machine is an electronic model, but only because of some of the specialty items I couldn't otherwise get. Your first machine should be mechanical, especially as it provides less to go wrong! Hopefully you can suss out a lot of the small issues you find and not dealing with electronics makes this easier.

Embroidery and other hooplah - Not at first, seriously. It seems super inviting, very sexy, but spend some years mastering things like stitching 2 or more layers of cloth together. I have an embroidery machine which is now seldom used, do in part to software I can no longer run. I used it as a professional, but it was still likely overkill for what I needed. Unless this is going to be a business, don't bother.
I think that may be true of most of the gimmicky machines, like quilter's models. 9 (or more) times out of 10, you can do what you need without all the extra bells and whistles.

What else can you tell me that may not be common knowledge?

What, that's not enough? All right, consider taking a class in your new machine, or a sewing class in general. You'll be amazed at what you can learn. I got a few free with my last 2 machines and picked up techniques I never considered before.
Don't assume this will be your last machine. If you stick with this for a long time, you'll move on to another. I recently sold that Singer Merit my mom gave me to a friend's sister, where it is helping a new enthusiast get some skills under her fingers.
Oh, and don't use, or at least type, the word sewer. Everyone will read it the way they're used to seeing that word, not as sew-er.

Tuesday, December 28, 2010

Dressing for the season

It has certainly been a few weeks since I posted, so we'll try and get back on track her somewhat regularly. Today's post is inspired by questions a friend had on winter camping

What is it?

When we go out into the elements these days, we often only think of it in short bursts. Running to the car, heading into work or a shop, checking the mail. Sometimes we're out for an hour or so shoveling, working hard and keeping warm. But what if you have to walk some distance? Maybe your car stops on a back road, maybe you're snowed in, or maybe you want to get some exercise by taking a walk. Knowing how to dress for the weather will certainly make everything far more bearable! This becomes more vital when we look at things like skiing or (for those of us slightly off our rocker) winter camping.

Why do it?

You don't want to freeze, do you? ;) Seriously, this is an area I think is getting lost as we spend less time outdoors. There was a time when most people spent at least a little time outside each day, either tending to livestock, visiting the market, fetching water, or any number of other tasks. In our age of central heating and warm automobiles, fleece jackets, and indoor entertainment, we often feel like we can best Mother Nature. All too quickly we can learn how wrong we are. Frostbite is certainly the first thing people think about, but hypothermia is a far more insidious threat, and one that can lead to lethargy, unconsciousness, and death. Good reasons to bundle up!

How did I learn it?

Yep, you guessed it - Boy Scouts. This blog sometimes reads like an add for the BSA, but it remains a great place for the passing of practical skills to boys and young men. The Girl Scouts could be similar (and in some troops, is) though I fear they too often focus on "feminine" skills to the exclusion of outdoor skills. Of course, the popularity of these and other outdoor organizations has waned in popularity amongst the youth amidst other options, so many of these skills are ones we need to pick up as adults.

As a Scout, I was fortunate that my Troop had a very motivated Scoutmaster. He was of the firm opinion that we should do an outdoor event each month, including the winter months. Additionally, our council held a "Klondike Derby" which required outdoor camping and practice of skills. The base of all this was, of course, staying warm!

How do you learn it?

I'll provide you some key points, though I think there is some variation from person to person. We each have our own unique make-up and chemistry that will change what we might feel comfortable wearing. My wife is always colder than I am, so when and how much she wears is certainly different from my choices, though I feel the basics remain the same. Experiment, but do so wisely! Cold related injuries are some of the worst, and also some of the easiest to come by. When cold moves to pain, GET WARM FAST. If it moves to no longer being cold, it might be too late to save things like toes and fingers, or worse yet, your life. Don't mess around with this. Seriously, try it out near home, spending an hour or so out in your yard when you can move back inside if you get cold. Sledding, winter walks, snowshoeing, and skiing at a commercial slope are good ways to test out your gear before doing something like a weekend long camping trip.

Of course, everything here is my opinion and should not be taken as scientific fact. I hold no responsibility if your toes fall off.

Materials - In this age of microfibers and nylon, there is an understandable urge to use the "latest and greatest" out there. I can sympathize and have, more than once, jumped on the wagon myself. However, after many years, many materials, and lots of exposure, I have yet to find anything that beats wool. Wool is natures miracle fiber, especially in winter. It will help absorb moisture, yet has a level of water resistance even after all the natural lanolin has been removed. More importantly on the cold front, it can keep you warm even when completely soaked! This benefit cannot be overstated and has yet, to my knowledge, to be duplicated by modern materials. Of course, when wet, wool becomes heavy, but heavy is better than dead, and avoiding it getting wet in the first place certainly helps.

That leads, quite naturally, to staying dry. Often winter equals snow, at least in may areas, and if not snow, ice and rain. This is where modern technology shines. Fabrics like GoreTex and its "descendants" provide a mostly waterproof barrier that greatly reduces the chances of you getting wet. I say mostly as seams are a weak point in any waterproof clothing. Proper care and taping helps considerably, as do treatments (which we'll talk about in a minute) but be aware anything can wear down. I prefer GoreTex and the like to things like PVC and vinyl as GoreTex will allow moisture to escape your body without allowing it in. Thus, when you work hard, some of the excess heat and sweat can get out, while PVC rainsuits keep that in and result in your being wet from the inside instead of the outside. Using a light GoreTex style outer layer will help keep the under layers dry and doing their job.

Additionally, waterproof garments tend to be windproof. Wind can kill really quickly, which is why folks make such a big deal out of windchill at this time of year. That's because the wind will blow all the warmth right out of you, no mater how many layers you might wear. Wool does provide some wind protection, depending on the weave, but a good windproof outer garment will do wonders to keep your body warming itself up.

There are other places for modern fabrics, like wicking undergarments, which I'll touch on in a bit. Fleece is another one that I do utilize, though normally in coordination with others. Fleece is light, somewhat water repellent, and great insulation. I prefer thinner fleeces as they don't cause you to overheat as fast and are easy to remove, though I tend to limit it to one layer that can be removed, as we'll discuss below.

The one fabric I almost entirely avoid is cotton. There is an old saying that "Cotton kills", and while that may be an oversimplification, it isn't off the mark. Cotton is fabulous in warmer weather and I certainly wear my share of it in the winter. I have flannel lined jeans I'll wear for going to work, clearing off the car, or hanging around the house. However, if I intend to spend more than 15 minutes outside, except on the driest days, the cotton stays in the house. Cotton absorbs water very well, as evidenced by it's heavy use in things like towels and cotton balls. Once it has that water, it is reluctant to give it up and becomes very heavy, more so than a similar weight wool, yet it no longer insulates. In fact, it becomes a channel to cool your body off very quickly! Please, leave the jeans inside when you're spending any time outdoors in the winter.

Layers - Your mother always told you to dress in layers, and with good reason. Not only do layers allow you to vary how much you are wearing at any point in time, they also create additional pockets of air that help insulate. As odd as it sounds, air is really what is keeping you warm, whether it is the air trapped between fibers of something like wool pants or the air between that long underwear and your long sleeve shirt. Your body heats that air up and the layers keep it trapped inside. See, your mom was right, even if you found it annoying.

I prefer multiple small layers. While I have my heavy-duty winter coat (a blanket-weight wool trench coat, actually), if I'm spending a lot of time outdoors, it isn't what I grab. Instead, I dress in numerous lighter layers. These allow me to not only stay warm, but if I start to sweat, I can take a layer off keep from getting too drenched inside my clothes. I like to start with long johns (sometimes these are cotton, though I prefer silk or modern fibers) and build out. Consider using vests or short sleeve shirts (again, close to the body and less likely to get wet) as you'll find that keeping your chest warm is fairly critical. Arms and legs are a little more used to being cold, so can often do with a little less cover than your torso can. Additionally, you'll restrict your movement less in this manner. This is one of the places I will often wear fleece, in the form of a vest, though I recently picked up a wool vest that I absolutely love and now tend to grab first. Build outward and figure out how many layers you personally need. For me, the number is about 4-6 on my torso, 3-4 on my arms, and 2-4 on my legs, depending on what I'm going to be doing and how cold it is. It sounds like a lot, but with thinner layers it's actually pretty easy to do and still move around.

Hands and feet - The areas that, arguably, are in the greatest danger are those furthest away from your torso. When you hear about frostbite cases, it is invariably in the toes or fingers. When I mentioned cold turning to pain earlier, this is where you're most likely to feel it (or possibly the tip of your nose, but we'll get there). Everything listed above about materials and even layers applies here as well. First, the fingers.

Gloves seem like a given, but not all gloves are created equal! In fact, if you look at the cultures that have faced the most extreme cold, you will see that very few of them actually use (or used) gloves very often. The mitten is the preferred winter hand garment. This is because it puts all your fingers in one place to share warmth. Of course, we now feel the need for fingers to do detailed work, but being honest there is so little we need our fingers free for while outdoors. Yes, when driving a car we might find it more convenient, or doing something like building a fire it becomes easier with our fingers free, but consider whether you'll be doing short (under a minute) tasks with your finger where it might not be better to have a mitten that you take off then put back on, allowing your fingers to warm each other.

It might also make sense to wear a thing glove liner under a pair of mittens, or look at some of the mitten/glove combination. I prefer the fingerless style myself as my fingers share more warmth that way and I get greater manipulation. If you do wear gloves, be picky, read reviews, and make sure there's a little extra room in there for that all important air. Skintight gloves might be nice for driving, but they're really just a barrier between you and the cold steering wheel. They won't keep your hands warm for long outdoors. Of course, an outside layer that is waterproof is great when it's wet or snowy, so factor that in as well.

Your feet are often a bigger problem. Honestly, if your fingers get cold, you can tuck them inside your coat, under your arm pits, or in your pants if need be (yes, it might seem a bit vulgar, but keeping your fingers takes precedence over propriety, in my opinion). Your feet spend all their time far away from your core and are tough to tuck under your arms unless you're very flexible. Now we're in the realm of boots, which can be a bit of a minefield in which to tread. Let's go down the path I've followed before.

For an outer shell, I prefer leather, though I think some great work has been done on the combination leather/fabric boots in recent years. This is partially a care factor for me as I only have to think of one type of treatment. There are sprays designed to work on both, so this is really a preference point. Leather has a lot of give and flexibility that allows you to move over rough terrain, it can be fairly well waterproofed, and does provide a slight barrier to the cold. Your only other real option is rubber, which I find works well for short periods outside but isn't giving enough for anything more than tromping through the snow. Additionally, without insulation, rubber gets cold really quickly. Conversely, it traps moisture more than leather and can end up soaking your feet in your own sweat.

When it comes to what's below the boot's shell, there are really only 2 things to consider here - insulation and waterproofing. Waterproofing may seem an odd thing to mention as we've already talked about the outer layer, but many boots now come with a GoreTex (or similar) inner liner. This is added protection and I find it worth the extra cost. I consider it insurance on keeping my feet dry, and I get cranky when my feet are wet. Insulation works much like other areas we've talked about above. Better to have a thin layer in the boot with additional layers underneath than one really thick one. If you're just wearing it out to clear some snow, this isn't a big deal, but more than an hour or so and it's nice to have the option to remove or add more if needed. Additionally, too much insulation tends to lead to a stiffer boot.

We have to wear something between the boot and our toes, and that something is socks. I am a fan, not surprisingly, of wool socks and actually wear them year round. There are a variety available, many with modern materials incorporated to add stretch and make them more washer friendly. Consider wearing more than one as well, possibly a thinner sock with a thicker one over top. This is something to consider when buying your boot, too, as you don't want something that is too tight. Tight boots will cause cold spots on your feet, so wear your extra socks when you go to try your boots on at the store.

Topping it all off - By far the most important thing to do is cover your head. The vast majority of body heat (between 70-85%, depending on where you look) escapes through your head, so capturing that is critical. Consider as well that your nose, chin, lips, and neck are hanging out there as well. For moderately cold days without a lot of wind or wet, I will use a knit or fleece hat that is easy to remove and tuck away if I get too warm. This is one layer you can always quickly remove for some quick cooling down while exerting yourself. If I'm camping, I prefer a thick hat (I have a great fur one) that works well when not moving around a lot, and a thinner one for exertion. Having a waterproof hood to pull up is also great to have.

At times when it's really bitter, I'll add either a scarf or a balaclava to the mix. A few years ago I picked up a balaclava for motorcycling (I'll ride year round, though a lot less in the winter) that is windproof and amazing at keeping my nose and neck warm, even at 20 degrees and 75 mph. You can easily move it down to ease breathing if needed, though breathing through fabric isn't as bad as your brain tends to tell you. And for those of us with facial hair, it prevents the icicles that tend to form in mustaches!

What else can you tell me that may not be common knowledge?

Take care of your gear and it will take care of you. I like to treat any new boots I get with waterproofing right after I get them, regardless of what the manufacturer did to them. Then I break them in (at least a week of heavy wear) and treat them again. Every few months, they get shined and treated, always with special attention to the seams. Waterproof outer garments get washed with a treatment like Tech Wash yearly or as needed. Follow wash and care instructions on garments, they're there for a reason (though I do wash all my wool, with Woolite, but I do not tumble dry).

Figure out your safety points and don't exceed them. Practice makes perfect, so don't rush out for a full weekend of winter camping without a few shorter outings to get a grip on what you can handle. Most of all, have fun!

Thursday, October 28, 2010

The value of a handshake

What is it?

This came in as a request from a reader, and it's something I have certainly thought about quite a bit. There's actually a fair bit that can be conveyed in a handshake, maybe more than you think!

Why do it?

We encounter people all the time, many of them we know and others we are meeting for the first time. How you greet them conveys a lot about who you are and what you expect out of the meeting. A handshake can also convey far more than a greeting or departure, having traditionally been used to signal agreement or to lock in a verbal contract.

How did I learn it?

This is something most, if not all of us, learn as kids. There was a time that it was really only boys that learned this, but it has changed significantly over the years. Scouting introduced me to a few variations on the handshake, as did my work at Renaissance faires. Over time I've learned that some people take such things far more seriously than others, often to my chagrin.

How do you learn it?

What you intend to convey will have a big impact here. There are a few basics that almost always apply:
The approach: extending the hand perpendicular to the ground but palm turned slightly upward is an inviting and friendly way to start a shake. It implies a willingness to help. It is always safe to extend a handshake to another man and to most women under the age of 45 or so. Older women may not shake hands as this is a fairly recent change in our society. Allow them to extend first. Often a mutual start of shakes will imply a fairly equal station and eagerness. When unclear, it can be fine to wait for a shake as the initiator will often appear inviting.

Of note, do not extend your left hand unless encountering someone who is obviously unable to shake with their right. This is still considered rude (barring inability) to many people.

The grip: thumb wrapped over the top, fourth and fifth fingers (depending on hand size) below. Grasp their hand firmly, though not forcefully. A soft or lame handshake is often seen as a sign of weakness or lack of interest. Too hard is rather juvenile and unappreciated. Never should your handshake cause pain.

The pump: One or 2 short pumps convey sincerity, especially when punctuating a greeting. These should follow the same rules as the grip, being somewhat firm but not overly vigorous. Don't pump too hard, fast, or often, as this belies a level of extreme excitement which may be construed as rude.

The eyes: this is a handshake, so who cares about the eyes? Everyone. Making eye contact while shaking shows you are as interested in meeting the person as they are in meeting you. It implies sincerity, trust, and an earnest nature. Failure to do so will make you appear uninterested at best and shifty at worst.

The release: Most handshakes will last 2-3 seconds, at which point both parties will release. If pressure is removed by the other party, take the signal and let go. Too long can become awkward.

Things to avoid: aside from the items mentioned above, it is worth noting a few other pitfalls. Greatest amongst them is avoiding a shake. This is considered a serious insult to the other party, implying a lack of interest or outright disdain for the presenter of the shake. If one needs to avoid a shake, perhaps for health reasons (IE, you're ill), this should be immediately vocalized with an apology. Similarly, wiping your hand AFTER a shake (it is acceptable before, especially if you have a dirty or sweaty palm) is very rude, akin to implying the other person is unclean or unworthy in some regard.

Variations: There are a number of uses for the handshake outside of greeting and farewell. When conveying concern or care, a second hand is often wrapped over the other person's hand, thus suggesting support and willingness to aid. this can often be seen at funerals and weddings. It has become popular in recent years for the handshake to be used by men of close acquaintance to initiate a hug, pulling the other person in but often maintaining the handshake. This allows a sense of physical separation while embraced.

Traditionally, a handshake has been used to conclude business and convey a sense of willingness to abide by any agreements discussed. In fact, it may be specifically asked for (IE, "Let's shake on it.") to seal a deal. Such a shake implies a willingness to take each other at your word and honor to follow through on any agreements in lieu of a contract or until one can be drawn. The breaking of such an arrangement signifies to the other party a lack of trustfulness.

What else can you tell me that may not be common knowledge?

There have been a variety of handshakes over the ages, but many scholars believe it began as a method to show that a person intended no harm. As long as 2 people were gripping primary fighting hands (often the right), they could not fight. During the middle ages when the sword was normally worn on the left, holding a grip would prevent the drawing of the sword.

At some points, the forearm was clasped instead of the hand, further restricting movement, even though it brought 2 people closer into contact.

Feel free to weigh in with other thoughts below!

Tuesday, October 19, 2010

Preparing the inside of your car for winter driving

What is it?

There's a list of things to be done to your car when prepping for the winter. snow tires, anti-freeze service, lighter weight oil, winter wipers...the list isn't too long and not always applicable to every vehicle. Some of you may be living in areas where winter is what we in New England call "fall". I want to speak instead about the things we can take with us as we drive during the colder months in the event something goes awry.

Why do it?

Being stuck somewhere with a flat tire, a dead battery, or worse is never fun. During the colder months, it can be downright dangerous! A little bit of money, some pre-planning, and you'll be a lot happier. Years ago (OK, decades ago) while we lived in Ohio, my father got stuck on the way home in a massive snow storm. It took him over 6 hours to do a 30 minute commute. Fortunately, he had a full tank of gas and had taken some precautions, many of which I think get ignored by the modern traveler. We expect gas stations on every corner to be open 24 hours, roads to be plowed minutes after the first flake is spotted, and AAA to have response times better than Dominoes pizza. Hopefully, all 3 are always true, but reality is a cruel mistress.

How did I learn it?

I know I keep saying it, but Boy Scouts had a big impact on my urge to be ready for whatever can happen. "Be Prepared" is a motto that tends to stick with you. There have been times in my life where I've forgotten to follow that motto and I've always regretted it. With my first car, a few things always got carried. Now, I'm more prepared than ever, probably over-prepared, but it provides a level of comfort I feel is worth the loss of cargo space. I'm continually looking at how I can better refine my needs.

How do you learn it?

I'll give you some of the key things I carry and why. Hopefully others will weigh in with their thoughts.

To prepare we have to think about what can happen and look at the likelihood and duration of the problem. These will give us areas to tackle. Most will be mechanical, some environmental, and maybe a few catastrophic. We'll begin with a list of everything I carry with me, then we'll talk about why I do it. I'll skip those items that are standard on most cars (spare tire, jack, etc), though I will mention them in some of the areas below.

Motor club membership (I have AMA, many use AAA)
Jumper cables
Flares
Tire repair kit
Wagan PowerDome
5 Gallons of gas (whenever traveling more than 50 miles)
basic tool set (metric, as that is what my truck uses)
windshield washer fluid
pre-mix anti-freeze (50/50)*
flashlights (2)
multi-tool
"escape" or rescue tool
shovel*
sand*
atlas
GPS
ice scraper (2)*
hatchet and small saw
first aid kit
hat and gloves
spare sweatshirt
wool blanket*
winter boots*
rain poncho (2)
cell phone
Nalgene water bottle
trash bags
candle lantern
lighter (2)

Aside from those marked with the *, these items remain in my truck all year long. I actually carry a lot more than this, but these I consider the bare minimum. Many of them reside in a single backpack that can be easily moved around the vehicle, or taken with me into another car, etc. My wife has a very similar setup in her car. It takes up surprisingly little room when all put together, and much can fit into the existing small spaces in your vehicle (glovebox, wheel well, etc).

So, why all this stuff?

Mechanical issues - the things most likely to happen are problems with your car. They can happen anytime, but a few are more likely in the winter. As I mentioned above, prepping your vehicle for winter is a REALLY good idea. Part of the benefit of this is it makes you look at some of the critical areas of your car and make certain it can handle the season. A good tune-up will also help in this. If your mechanic can catch a problem before it happens all the better! Changing tires for snow tires means someone will have seen the tires before you drive on them.
Of course, things still go wrong. A dead battery or flat seems most likely. A flat tire can be dealt with by having a spare in good repair and a decent jack. The battery is a little tougher. In an area with other vehicles, you can likely get a jump, but only if you have jumper cables. What if no one is around? This is why I like the Wagan PowerDome, since it is a stand alone unit. Additionally, it includes a radio and an air compressor, both very useful tools. Finally, the inverter means you can charge cell phones or other devices if your car is dead.
I like having tools so I can deal with stuck hoses, air filters, etc. Even if you don't know a lot about car maintenance, someone may stop to help and not have tools themselves. Having a flashlight or 2 (since one could go dead) to light your way, flares to let others know you have a problem, and extra fluids in case you overheat is further insurance.
If you don't have AAA or an equivalent (I use AMA as I'm a motorcyclist, but the coverage is very similar), get it. It is really worth the annual fee to have a safety net when you need it.

Environmental issues - snow, ice, sleet, freezing rain...none of these are pleasant while driving, but are a reality for many of us. They come with other possibilities like getting stuck, frosted windshields, and slick driving conditions. A shovel for getting snow out from around your tires is invaluable as even a well plowed parking lot may leave your car blocked in a snow bank. Scrapers are great, though often break, so I carry 2. Since I drive a pickup, I carry sand in the bed of the truck, and some of that can be shoveled out to aid in traction on icy spots. And don't forget that trees weighed down by heavy snow and ice can break and block your way, especially on rural routes. A saw or hatchet can make quick work of these obstacles, not to mention warming you up a bit for your efforts.

Catastrophic issues
What if any of the above happens in the middle of nowhere? Or if there's a massive weather emergency that has all the emergency services, including AAA, tied up for hours? Worse yet, what if you have an accident, either alone or another vehicle? These are all things we hope never happen, but we're better off if we prepare.
Certainly you can't expect to fix everything that might happen in such circumstances. This is why I list a cell phone as invaluable. Calling for help is critical, just make sure it's charged and ready to go! A cheap, pre-paid phone that is left in the car isn't a bad idea, either.
If you're stuck in your car (or out of it) when it's cold, extra clothing may be the difference between life and death. I leave gloves, a hat, and boots in the car in case I'm even stuck wearing dress clothes when something goes wrong. Leather-soled dress shoes won't serve me well and may plant me on my butt! If I need to sit in the car for any period of time, a wool blanket helps a lot, and a long-lasting candle lantern will provide light and even some small amount of warmth with little risk of fire.
When you're out of the car and it's raining, a poncho is great and also keeps some heat in. Trash bags can be placed on snow to keep your clothing dry, used to cover broken windows, or as a way to keep either wet things contained or dry things dry.
In the event you need to get out of a vehicle in an accident, I like having a rescue tool within reach to cut the seatbelt and/or break out a window. Cheap money for a little more piece of mind. A basic first aid kit can deal with some of the after effects if you find yourself in an accident.
Finally, I like to have water on hand as you can't go very long without it. During the winter, water goes in and out of the car with me, lest it freeze. It's fine when you run into a store for an hour or 2, but longer than that and it comes with me. I do also carry a steel cup that I could use to melt snow with my candle lantern, but that may be more extreme for some of you. :)

What else can you tell me that may not be common knowledge?

Various stats show that you're likely to be in an accident every 6 years, with an average of 6 million happening a year. Most of those will be minor, but in the winter even a minor setback can be difficult. Personally, I like to be ready whenever possible and work to reduce risk where I can. Little things like proper maintenance and refilling your tank before you're on 'E' help. Why not take a few more steps to get safely to your destination, even if it takes longer than you expected?

One final word of caution to everyone who thinks 4-wheel drive means you won't get stuck. If you hit ice, it doesn't matter how many wheels have power, they all start spinning. Take some time to practice with it and realize it doesn't mean you should drive faster than everyone else!

Thursday, October 7, 2010

Basic sewing

What is it?

Putting needle and thread together to make clothing helped elevate our species up the chain of civilization. Nearly everything you wear has stitching involved, from hat to shoes. For now, we're talking about the basic hand-sewing kind.

Why do it?

Ever lost a button, or had a pair of pants that was just a little too long? Mom eventually gets sick of you calling her for help, and these days you're unlikely to find one of your friends who can stitch for you, so why not learn how yourself? It's a heck of a lot cheaper than throwing away that sweater!

How did I learn it?

Around the time I was 10, my mother decided (as she did with many such things) that her boys should know how to do their own sewing repairs. Thus were we shown how to do basic hand stitches and attaching a button using pieces of old sheets. This certainly wasn't elegant, but it meant we did all our own simple repairs moving forward, making us better at it. One of the first things I did was take my very worn and abused sock monkey and do some serious repairs. When I was done it more resembled a mummy than a monkey, but it helped me understand the basics.

Eventually, mom sat me down in front of a machine and made me learn how to make my own costumes (I was 18 and working at the local Renaissance Faire), but we'll save that for a future post, shall we?

How do you learn it?

Like so much of life, practice is key. But this one is cheap and easy. First, you need a few supplies. Go off to Joann Fabrics, Wal-Mart, or your mom's sewing box, and gather the following:

- Sewing needles (for right now, assume that most needles are essentially the same, but don't get TOO big of a needle. Look for those around 2 inches and you should be fine)
- Thread - pick black or white, for ease. Choose "all purpose" for this
- scissors - sharp is better (not the point, but the blades), standard scissors are fine
- fabric - Old sheets or t-shirts are good for this

First, go watch this video on threading the needle.

Now try making a few stitches. Start from one side of the material, stick the needle through, pull it almost all the way in, then stick the needle back down into the fabric. Do this a few more times, in one side, out the other. Now, even though you've only done one piece of fabric, you've done a stitch! It may not look pretty, it may not bee in a straight line, but you're sewing. It really is that simple.

Now take the fabric, put 2 pieces together, and do the same thing about 1/2" in from the edge. This time, after you first pull the thread through the pieces, go back down about 1/8" further along the edge. Now, run the needle through the small loop of thread prom your first past, right by the knot in the thread. Pull the rest of the thread through that loop and pull it all tight, anchoring the thread in place. Now start stitching along, trying to maintain that 1/8" distance 1/2" in from the edge. When you get down to about 3-4" of thread, push the needle through to the side where you first started. Take the needle and slide it under one of the stitches, then pull tight. Do the same thing under the new stitch you just made, but before you pull it tight, loop under from the same direction creating a loop of thread. Push your needle through this loop and pull everything tight to make a knot. Congratulations, you've just joined 2 pieces of fabric by sewing!

Some other nice tutorials to help get you going:
Sewing on a button
Hemming a pair of pants

What else can you tell me that may not be common knowledge?

Once you get these basics down, you can do a lot more with sewing. Embroidery, cross-stitch, and other needle arts are really just forms of sewing. Buttons become simple, and you might eventually find you want to take on bigger projects. That's when sewing machines come in handy, but there will always be a place for hand sewing!