The importance of quality in Preparedness

Like many in our modern culture, I am infected with the consumerism bug. I like stuff, and I like to pay as little as I can for it. I'm trying to get a better handle on this, especially as I look around my house and see just how many things I own but never touch. This glance has saved me a few bucks recently (why buy the Xbox 360 when there's literally dust on the Wii?), but it has also made me think about the level of quality in what we buy.

First off, let me say that I am not a hard-edged "Made in the USA" sort of guy. Yes, I do try and support our country's economy where I can, but the fact is the "American Made" does not always mean "Well Made". My Toyota Tundra is one example. This truck is solid, and has a historical longevity outstripping all the competition. Granted, it was also built here, but by a Japanese company. However, we have a preponderance of cheap items available in stores like Wal-Mart that seem a great deal. Why spend a lot on a DVD player when you can toss it out and buy a new one for less than getting a top notch one now? I think that attitude can work for those items we don't need to rely on, but what about the really critical items in our lives? What if your life actually depends on it?

Growing up, my father had an assortment of tools in the basement. The fact is, he wasn't the most handy guy around, so his tools tended towards the affordable yet functional side. I know my brother killed a few of those tools as he became more and more mechanically inclined. He began to adopt our grandfather's attitude of buying a quality tool that wouldn't fail. As I later became more handy, I took this to heart. My old business partner, a very skilled blacksmith, helped to drive it home. Why buy a cheap grinder that couldn't be repaired and kept going when your livelihood depended on getting product out the door?

When it comes to survival and prepping items, this becomes my #1 concern, over cost. Yes, cost comes into it, but I would rather spend 2-3 times the cost on, say, a pocket knife that is of quality construction and steel than picking up a poor substitute at Harbor Freight. I will grab items like sand paper and grinding wheels there, just not items I know may become "mission critical" at some point. I try very hard to physically lay hands on items I worry about before a purchase, or make sure the return policy is one that allows me to return it if I am unsatisfied. Even if I have to pay to ship something back, I'd rather not keep it around if I can't rely on it.

So, what are those items we need to stress about from a preparedness standpoint? Here's a short list, please share your thoughts with me in the comments:

1) Survival kit items: Anything that might actually save your life in the field. Lighters, pocket knives, emergency blankets, etc. Learn to look for signs of poor construction, and then test the item out when you get it. If you can't rely on it, put it aside for use where it won't be critical. For instance, a cheap lighter can still light your fireplace, but shouldn't be in your Bug Out Bag.

2) Critical work tools: When we think about having to board up the house for a storm, cut up a fallen tree, or fix a busted fuel line, knowing your tools won't fail you is vital. Consider that in an emergency you may not be able to go buy a replacement. A friend of mine has a good rule on what he won't buy at Harbor Freight. If it spins, cuts, oscillates, or passes life-threatening levels of electricity, he won't buy it there. That said, you need to investigate tools you'll rely on as buying them at a big box store doesn't guarantee quality. Read reviews, do your research, and give it a good looking over. If it feels poorly made, it likely is.

3) Storage containers: This is a pretty wide category. Not only does it include the plastic totes and glass jars you might use for food storage, but also bags for vacuum sealing, backpacks for Bug Out Bags, and gas and water cans. If it holds something you might rely on, buy quality. Also learn the limits of that container. Plastic totes are fine at room temp and out of the sun, but store them below freezing and they become brittle. Store a plastic gas can in the bed of your pickup and the plastic will start to break down. That last one is the voice of experience, leading me to investigate metal "jerry cans" for that purpose.

4) Footwear: It took me a long time to understand the value of spending money to buy quality footwear. I was a fan of Payless until I realized how much longer I could walk and stand in good quality shoes and boots. Now imagine needing to walk home from work, or being stuck at a friend's place for weeks on end. Being stuck in crappy shoes could really blow. I tend to wear new shoes a few days for the first few weeks I have them till I feel they can really go the distance. I do have certain shoes, like Crocs, that only get worn for trips close to home, and I also like to keep a pair of solid, reliable shoes in the car for trips further than a few miles from home.

5) Self-defense items: Yes, you can buy cheap pepper spray canisters, but will you want to rely on it when you need it? Have you tried the specific type of ammo in your EDC firearm, or will it jam in the cheap magazine you bought? If your training is up to speed but your equipment isn't, you'll get caught in the lurch should you ever need it.

6) Vehicle needs: Bargain tires and batteries won't be a bargain when you get stuck on the side of the road in a snowstorm. Shelling out for quality is really a form of insurance payment.

There are plenty of cheap items out there with which we can get by. If your guitar controller for Rock Band dies on you, you'll survive. But the one time you need some quality rope to hold something together and the cheap poly twine you bought gives out, you'll wish you'd thought a bit more about quality.

Testing the limits

One thing that bears consideration when you put a lot of time and effort into preparedness is how to know if you're ready when things go wrong. That involves testing the boundaries and seeing how your preps fair. I've slated 2013 for that purpose and buffing things up. Here, for your consideration, is my calendar for working on and drilling specific areas:

January - Food
My #2 priority. The goal is to take on one major task each week
1. Drag out all my stored food and review dates and quantities. Update existing spreadsheet. Hmmm, I should share that
2. Evaluate caloric intake and determine gaps for 3 month minimum for the household
3. Acquire additional long term-items, rotate into cooking schedule
4. Cook entire meal from nothing but preps, focusing on long-term storage items

February - Water
My #1 item, and also a serious weak point for me. The key points to accomplish before the end of February are:
- set up 50 gallons of drinking water
- develop water catchment system for rain water, with an eye towards watering the garden
- look into hand-pump options for the well, to be completed by mid-summer

March - 24 hour drill
The first of these, and a long time coming. Without deliberately preparing and without telling everyone else in the house, kill the power and get by on what is in the house, including using the fireplace for heat.

April - Power
Following on the heels of the March drill, I should have a better understanding of my power deficiencies. Known problems are having enough gas to run the generator for at least a full week. I also need to look into propane conversion options, solar applications, and assuring my existing Power Domes are up to snuff, including replacing the battery in one of them. Fix or plan for fixing of discovered problems.

May - Planting and gardening
I didn't put enough focus on this in 2012, so this year will be largely about getting the garden in place and ready for the year. I will also be renting a bobcat to play with swales and erosion control.

June - Bug Out Bag (BOB) shake-down
This was recommended by my family. It will mean taking everyone's bag apart and reviewing the contents, with an eye towards the July plans. By the end of the month, everyone's should be good to go. Also, a few mile hike will be done with our bags on our back to assure we can handle them.

July - Getting out
This is a drill of a different nature, but one focused on bugging out, not bugging in. The goal will be to pick a random time and load everything needed to get out within 30 minutes. Plans will be reviewed early in the month, then evaluation will follow afterwards.

August - 48 hour drill
Much like the 24 hour drill, but, you know...longer

September - Shelter
This one is still rather half-formed, but it rests largely on camping out with my various shelter options, as well as reviewing my shelter building skills. At least one night out with just the BOB will be part of this.

October - 48 hour drill
With any luck, this one goes flawlessly.
November - Security
I'm hazy on this, but my current thought is that this rests on 3-gun competition. I think it also will involve some basic skill-testing of self-defense skills, including pepper spray, with the women of the house. Additionally, they each need to show basic gun safety rules, specifically being able to assure a gun is unloaded.

December - Reflection, and Getting out part 2
No good plan or review works without taking stock in what went wrong and what went right. So, December will be a time for that reflection. Oh, and one more drill, you know, to make sure they stuck. Anyone have plans to push themselves in 2013? I'm not talking resolutions here. I'm talking plans!

Black Friday - Survival style

For those who like getting a drop on holiday shopping with a preparedness slant, I figured I'd give a few thoughts on what's worth picking up on Black Friday. Below are some I've found in the ads that have already come out. I've broken it out by major needs.

Shelter
Coleman 6-person tent for $90, has some decent reviews.

Food
Food dehydrator for $100. A few other useful food tools on there, too.
Food storage by Rubbermaid for $15.

Water Bottled water for $2.50.
Personal Brita filter bottle for $7.

Power/Fire
A decent generator for $280
Outside solar lights for $15

Security
Bulk .223 ammo
Reloading setups
and supplies for good deals
Dick's has a few decent deals on hunting guns

Good to haves:
Garmin Nuvi GPS $70
Tool set and box for $99
Craftsman tools of various types. More here. In fact, the next few pages
Great stuff from Campmor at a variety of prices

Tons more out there, but this is a nice starting point. Anything you're eying, either for yourself or others?

If you were a prepper, you'd be home now

Here in the Northeast, we're about to be hit by "Frankenstorm", the side-effects of Hurricane/Tropical Storm Sandy. Personally, living a bit inland, I don't think it's going to be that terrible this far north, but it makes sense to be prepared for such an event. But why do it the day before?

If you had some basic things always around, you'd be home right now. You know, instead of out buying milk, eggs, and bread in what I just saw referred to as "The French Toast Syndrome". Like somehow those 3 items are going to be the difference between life and death. Or that they will dry up in the aftermath of a major storm.

Here, we aren't too worried. In fact, I'm scheduled to fly tomorrow morning. When I asked my wife if she was worried about my not being here, she was pretty clear she felt prepared. We currently have a few months food in the house in various forms, gas in the generator, and wood for the stove. Each winter we lose power for a few days or more, so this isn't really a worry. Though our stove is electric, we have a propane grill and camp stoves to let us cook as much as we need. The wood insert in the fireplace heats up a few rooms with no issue, so we cordon off those areas we don't need and camp out near the fire. Is it ideal? No. Comfortable? Surprisingly yes.

So, instead of going out 2 days before imminent disaster, why not plan ahead a bit and avoid the lines and rush? It's pretty easy:

1. Have a few weeks of food on hand
Stuff you eat, not MREs. Think about how long a box of spaghetti and a jar of sauce can last. I like to look at the stuff we eat that lasts a while, like soups, cereals, noodles, tuna fish, etc, and buy an extra one when I'm at the store. You can fit 3 weeks of food in your existing cabinets, if you get rid of that can of succotash that's been in there for 6 years and you'll never eat.

2. Prep for a power outage
Simple things, like having a few flashlights around and some spare batteries (because you always forget to check them). Coming up with an alternate heat source, like a kerosene or propane heater. And maybe getting something like a rechargeable backup battery that can charge your cell phone or laptop a few times. Most folks don't need a generator to get by. We use our Power Dome to run the fan on the fireplace for long periods of time.

3. Be able to get out if needed
I'm not talking about evacuation. this is more about driving to the next town to get gas or groceries if the outage goes on for weeks. If you live around trees, own a chainsaw to cut your way out should one block your driveway. Fill up the gas tank on the car regularly, always when you hit 1/2 tank (or at least 1/4). Have a snow shovel, even if you line in a complex where snow removal is done for you.

4. Talk it out
Talk with your SO, kids, roommates, pets, whatever. Get other ideas and other experiences. Everyone has been through something like this, see what they did.

Remember, preparedness is not really about the end of the world, it's about handling the bumps in the road we hit on the journey through life.

Survivalism

Why survivalism?
Having just changed the name and broadened the focus of this blog, I figure I'd address the more controversial of the terms heading it up. While "survival" takes many forms - and I mean for it to have that broad connotation, I will freely admit to being what many term a "survivalist". Sure, there are newer, more candied terms like "prepper", but the basics remain the same; we are folks who believe in being prepared for upcoming disaster. Why? What disaster? And aren't you just hoping for the end of the world? These are the questions you face when you embrace this attitude, so I'll lay out my thoughts on it now.  

What disaster-
I'll tackle this first as I think it informs the rest. In short, any disaster. This isn't 1953; I'm not planning to survive a nuclear attack in a fallout shelter on the back yard. I'll be honest, I have a list of things I think might go wrong, but since I began listening to the Survival podcast a few years ago, I've adopted the attitude of preparing for the likely, with the understanding that I am then better set up for the worst. The current disaster de' jour is zombies. Highly unlikely. A pandemic, on the other hand? Could be. But if I prepare for a massive ice storm, the likes of which can happen her in the north, leaving us without power for weeks on end, with gas and food tougher to obtain, then I'm better set up for the bigger problems of economic collapse, failure of the US power grid, trucker strikes, or a super-flu.  

Why -
I love my family and consider it my job to help keep them safe. Sure, I can't protect them all the time, but if having a few months of food on hand, the ability to purify water, and trying to keep my debt down put us in better stead, it's worth the effort. There are lots of disasters that affect only a family, and not having to run to a grocery store while one of us is job hunting is a way to reduce some stress. And, so it's clear, yes, I do have firearms to help protect them. Does my wife like it? No. Does she put up with it? Yes. And I hope she never has a reason to be thankful I have them. And while I firmly believe 90% of people are decent at heart, 10% are, to misquote Joss Whedon, bastard-shaped bastards with bastard filling. Those are the ones I worry about if, as we say, The Sh!t Hits The Fan (TSHTF). Oh, and as most of you know, I'm an Eagle Scout, so I take Be Prepared seriously.

Aren't you just hoping for the end of the world -
Hell no! I have a nice house, a good job, and lots of fun toys! If things fall apart, I won't be taking long vacations in Europe on the back of a motorcycle, or buying the latest toys from Apple. On the other hand, I know too much about history and pay just enough attention to the world around me to fear repetition of things that have gone wrong before. Besides, laying by a some food and keeping our debt low only helps me out day to day, so why not do it?

And the world won't end, even if we do something stupid. Earth will go on spinning, and, I believe, humans will go on living. Maybe it will be different, but we are too resilient as a species to go down easy.

So now you've got a peak into my survivalist side. Hopefully not as scary as the term implies. Expect more in the future, in the meantime, ask me questions and I'll share my thoughts.

Tying things up: Knots

What is it?

Something we use every day, or at least those of us with shoelaces. There was a time, long past, when everyone knew some basic knot tying as it was the most common way to bind things together. The advent of duct tape, bungee cords, and Velcro has seriously reduced the knowledge of the average person in this regard.

Why do it?

Almost all of us have encountered a need for knots. Maybe it is tying something to the roof of a car, tying a tarp down over a grill before a storm, or even putting 2 pieces of a broken shoestring back together. If you do anything outdoors you're likely to run into this need. Or maybe you're an international spy who needs a way to truss up some guards. A few simple knots in your repertoire can greatly increase your success in these areas.

How did I learn it?

This one lies completely with Scouting. While in Webelos, we started to learn the basic knots. The troop I eventually ended up in put a lot of stock in outdoor skills like knot tying and pioneering (rope work, such as lashing) to the point where we would hold speed competitions. Such contests sometimes got a little silly, which is why I can still tie a Bowline behind my back to this day.

How do you learn it?

This is one you need to learn by doing. No matter how many times you read about how a knot is tied or watch a video, until you tie it. I recommend getting some rope or cord to try these knots out as you play with them. Be selective in the rope or cord you use. Most nylon rope will slide and be stiff, making it very poor for knot tying. You can practice with hemp, manilla, or sisal rope, available at any hardware store, but if you intend to practice indoors, be aware that it will shed fibers. I personally use paracord for practice. It is mostly nylon, but it doesn't slip and is very easy to work with. As it is something I carry with me all the time, this gives me good practice with the material to which I am most likely to have access.

There is a lot of great information out there on the web on knot tying, from step by step directions to YouTube videos. I'll share a few of my favorites here:

Animated Knots - I've found this site to have a great variety of knots. I like their presentation, the step-by-step animation, and the use of different colored ropes when tying 2 (or more) lines together.

You Tube - There are honestly thousands of videos on YouTube for tying knots. I've found those done by Expert Village cover a great variety and are fairly easy to follow, but do a search for any knot you're looking for and you'll find someone showing how it's done.

Smartphone and Tablet apps - I recently grabbed a decent free app for my iPad, and some of the paid ones provide animation or video as well. I'll often sit in front of the TV after a long day with my iPad on a knot I don't know and tie it over and over again.

ITS Tactical- Knot of the week - a little more advanced, and not always weekly, I like the unique challenges and projects they introduce.

What else can you tell me that may not be common knowledge?

Very often, folks want to know what knots they need to know. That's tricky as it all depends on the situation, but here are 5 or 6 that would serve you well:

Square knot - not the end-all, be-all some will make it out to as, this knot is still the easiest place to start and very useful for tying 2 even size lines together. Far more reliable than that Granny knot you might be using

Bowline - if you need a loop in a rope that doesn't move, this is the granddaddy of them all.

Taut line hitch - if you need a loop that CAN move, but won't under stress, use this one. This and the bowline often make up the 2 ends of a tent rope.

Sheet bend - or the double sheet bend, makes an excellent way to secure 2 differently sized lines. Like when you need to lash something to the roof and you're cobbling together various lines.

Timber hitch - not much to this one, but it works really well as part of a securing process or for hauling anything. Learn the corresponding hitches that help keep things in line.

Slip knot - Makes a great stopper that's easy to remove.

Do you have a favorite knot? Let me know!

Picking out a multi-tool

What is it?

Many posts ago I talked about carrying a knife. In that post I mentioned multi-tools, something I always like to have around. In fact, I think if I counted I must own at least 8 or more of some form or another.

Why do it?

With the invention of the folding multi-tool by Tim Leatherman in 1984 (yes, it is named after him, not for working on leather), the world of the Swiss Army knife was shaken up. Swiss Army knives still abound, the multi-tools now hold a lot of sway and provide options previously undreamt of. But picking the right tool can be a bit of a mystery. I tmay also be why I have so many!

Considerations

What matters in a multi-tool? It turns out, quite a bit.

Use: what do you want the multi-tool to do?
• Everyday needs – opening boxes, tightening screws and nuts, cutting paper, dealing with splinters, cutting your nails, opening bottles
• Camping – wood working and cutting, cord cutting, can opener, cooking (including grabbing hot pots), fixing gear, pounding stakes
• Occupation – wire cutting, crimping connectors, pliers, cutting hoses/rope/etc, filing. All things that are done by mechanics, linemen, IT workers, carpenters, electricians, etc
• Sports/recreation – bicycling, shooting, motorcycling, smithing, climbing, woodworking, etc

Carrying method: How do intend to tote it around?
• On a belt – most multi-tools have the option of a carrying pouch or a belt clip, but can get in way of a seatbelt. It can also give that "Batman utility belt" look
• In a pocket – inconspicuous, always there, but wears on pockets
• In a bag – either within its own pouch or on its own, not with you if you set the bag down
• On a clip – many have carabineer options, for loops, rings, and belt loops, but bounces around

Size/Color: how big is too big?
• Is this for everyday? If so, how much space do you have available?
• How much does it weigh, either in the pocket, a bag, etc.
• What will it go next to? Consider that it might rub against a cell phone, keys, or whatever is nearby.
• Color is largely subjective, unless you need low-vis options like black oxide. There are numerous options, including many flashy colors

Tools: What is in this thing?
• It's easy to go overboard, and better if you have a use for everything if possible. Prioritize what you really need with the other sections above
• Consider zccess to the tools you’ll need most, and more quickly – very often things like knives should be to the outside
• Locking tools, for safety
• Replacement of wearable items, such as wire-cutters
• Quality – not all tools are created equal, and some models may be better at a task than others, even from the same manufacturer

Misc
• Additional tools – bits, wrenches, etc
• Warranty – may never need, but shows a level of faith by the manufacturer
• Engraving – for that really personal option

What do you carry?

As I said, I have a bunch of these, and that doesn't include the 3 or 4 my wife has. Here are a few of my favorites and why.

Leatherman Charge TTi - I've been carrying this one for over 7 years, and it has served me very well. The ability to change out the screwdriver bits is great, which prompted me to get the optional bit set. The file is the only thing showing wear, but not yet to the point where I'll take advantage of the 25-year warranty to have it replaced. It used to ride on my belt all the time, but since I took up motorcycling, I've moved it to a sheath on my EDC. I love having the knives on the outside for quick cutting with easy thumb opening. 2 blade options is also a big benefit.

Gerber 600 Basic - Actually, I have an earlier model, but it's essentially the same. I've owned a number of these, including, until it disappeared somewhere, a customer one in forest green. I really like the one handed 'flick' opening, and have one of these in my truck and another in my 72-hour kit. I have found that some of the tools are not as tough as I'd like, and having all of the tools on the inside makes access slow.

Leatherman Style CS - This is on truck key chain. I carry the Micra on my motorcycle keychain, for similar reasons. Both of these have great scissors, a small blade, tweezers, and a few other every day tools I find useful to keep around. They are small, but that makes it easy to make sure they go with me everywhere.

Leatherman MUT - This is the newest tool in the stable, so I don't have a lot to say on it yet. I'll be getting around to a full review soon for a friend, but at least I can tell you what led me to pick it up. While I do shoot, I also play airsoft, which uses replica firearms. More than once I've needed to open up a gun to do a quick repair and didn't have the tools I needed. This will help fill that option. Additionally, it has great bit options, tougher wire-cutters, and a quick cutter for things like cord or seat belts. Finally, and this was the deciding factor, it has a hammering surface. More than once I've used the handles of the TTi to pound things, but it really isn't cut out to handle that. We'll see how it works out!

Status Quo Bias

I heard a term today that I've thought about before, but didn't have a good label: Status Quo Bias. While it isn't a skill, per se, it is something that lead (and leads) me to develop new skills, so I wanted to share some thoughts here.

What is it?

I heard the term while listening to one of my favorite podcasts (OK, I think my favorite podcast), The Survival Podcast. Don't let the name throw you, this show is really about self-reliance and sustainability. Topics range from gardening to financial debt to wilderness survival and everything in between. Anyway, a listener sent in a link to this YouTube video: Your Yard is Evil. Very funny, very pithy, well worth the few minutes to watch. Good intro to the term.

In short, Status Quo Bias (SQB) is doing something because it's always been done or everyone else does it. Like growing a lawn, despite the silliness of the whole idea. It isn't always an old thing. In fact, I think some of our SQBs are fairly new and equally as silly. I do and learn a lot of my skills despite, or to combat SQB. Let's look at a few, as examples.

Eating out So many Americans do it. It's faster and easier, and has become the norm in many households. Yet it's costly, often bad for our health, and does it save time, really? Actually cooking and eating as a family seems to break from SQB at this point.

Car maintenance I'm not thinking of the big stuff, like replacing a cracked head, but things like changing a tire, checking your oil, radiator, and tire pressure, or being able to put on a spare all seem to have gone by the wayside. There was a time when you learned this at the same time you learned to drive, but it seems we're more than willing to rely on AAA or the various service vans that prowl the highways. But what if your have an issue on a back road and your cell phone is dead? Or, better yet, what if you could have prevented it by keeping up on some of those little items?

Carrying a knife I've talked about this before, but it is an example of SQB. As a kid, I carried a pocket knife all sorts of places, even sometimes to school. It was a tool, something you needed to have around. I have one in my pocket as I type this, and 2 more in easy reach. Yet, pull one out today and you get such interesting reactions! More often than not, it's a moment of concern followed by questions of why you need one. This is usually while you're doing something like opening a box, cutting some tough tape or cord, or one of those stupid blister packs everything comes in. My current preferred response is to stare at someone with slight disbelief and respond along the lines of "Because no one else does" or "For things like this!"

I could go on and on, but I'd love to know what you see as SQB. And, more importantly, I want us all (myself included) to think about it more and decide "Am I doing this just because of the status quo?"

Thoughts on personal defense

By FBI statistics, in 2009 there were 1,318,398 violent crimes reported in the US. Of course, there are crimes that never get reported, so this is the best number we have to go on. In a population of just over 307 million, that's, statistically, better than a 1 in 307 chance of being involved in such an incident. Now, obviously, there are high risk factors that many of us try to avoid, such as drug use, organized crime, and "dangerous" neighborhoods, but the fact remains that, with all the improvements we have made as a species, some of our population decide they will use whatever methods they deem necessary to gain their ends.

What is it?

When going through our daily lives, we hope never to need to deal with a situation where defense is needed. However, having a few tools at our disposal to help prevent injury to ourselves or our loved ones can be invaluable if the need arises.

Why do it?

This should be fairly apparent. With very limited exception we all desire survival. Even those who intellectually might stand opposed to self-defense might find that their instincts will betray their brain if such a situation ever arises. Therefore it seems sensible to me to do just a little thinking about the topic while we have the luxury of time.

How did I learn it?

I will first and fully admit that I am NOT a self-defense expert! While I have taken some Eastern Martial Arts training (tae kwon do, kashiman shun riu, and aikido) I don't hold any serious levels of those skills. Most of my close quarters training is Western in form, including longsword, dagger, pole-arm, and grappling. You'll notice most of those forms listed won't be of much use while wandering a modern city as I seldom have a halberd on which to rely. I have also had some firearms experience, but have never, thankfully, had anything worse than a paintball or BB shot in my direction, and hope that never changes. I can count on 3 fingers the number of unplanned (non-consensual) fights in which I ever fought and all were in high school. Please consider that when digesting this information.

That said, I have picked up some basic pointers and commonalities of defense that I think are valuable and can serve anyone well, regardless of how they decide to go about preparing for a situation we all hope will never arrive. To supplement the training I've taken, I have fought in armoured combat tournaments and trained others in armoured combat.

How do you learn it?

This is a big area, and this time I will say "Not here - mostly". As I said, I'm not an expert on this, I'm an interested student. My goal is to make you think about it and give pointers to both reduce the need to ever have to defend yourself and some basic things to do if it happens. I will mostly encourage you to seek out additional training depending upon your preferences.

First, what do you need to defend yourself against? According to the same FBI statistics mentioned above (and available here), aggravated assault is the most likely danger. This generally means "assault with a deadly weapon", regardless of intent. This may be mugging, an attempted sexual assault, domestic dispute, etc. Broad area, obviously. Robbery falls next, though it may not involve a weapon as this often elevates to the first category. The last 2 violent crimes by quantity are rape and manslaughter, though if we get to this point, defense has likely already failed. All of these are terribly unpleasant, so let's look at how we might go about defending ourselves. I'm going to go in order of most favorable to least, by my reckoning and preference.

#1- Avoidance - Don't be in a position for this to happen! The defensive tool here is called "situational awareness", or listening to your gut. We often suppress this instinctive warning, but it is worth honing it up a bit. When you see that unpleasant alley, don't walk through it. Avoid sketchy parks after dark. Don't wear expensive clothing or jewelry where everyone can see in areas of risk. Too many people, IE men, take a tough guy attitude and "aren't afraid of anything." Well, I'm afraid of being shot or stabbed to death, so I think it's worth taking stock of your surroundings and deciding if what you're about to do or where you're about to walk is worth the risk. Sometimes you may decide it is, but you certainly better be aware of your surroundings.

#2- Run and yell - I think people forget that this is a valid defensive technique. Criminals do not want a ton of attention brought to them, generally, so making noise, setting off car alarms, etc, can convince them not to push forward with their plans. Combine that with GETTING THE HELL AWAY! If you have a viable avenue of escape, use it. Think of this the way many of us were taught to think of driving. At any time, if you had to get away, which way would you go? This takes little time and, once a habit, little thought. In my opinion, everything else we talk about here is a precursor to this method.

#3- Non-lethal distance defense - Pepper spray, mace, and distance tasers fall into this category. The goal of them is to distract, delay, and hopefully incapacitate an attacker so that you can get away. Pick up whatever you can legally carry in your state (and figure out what you need to do so legally, if need be) and keep it on you. Personally, I would defy legality on sprays if needed on this for defense as I'd rather face a charge than end up in the hospital or morgue, but that's a risk I take on myself. Do your research before deciding on a spray to get (I prefer sprays as I think they are more instinctive and more likely to effectively land than distance tasers) and try to find a model where you can get an inert practice canister to try out. Be aware that a stream model may be better than a spray (especially in a windy situation) but requires more aim, thus making that inert practice model more vital. There are folks who are not very affected by certain sprays, but shooting ANY liquid into someones face will give them at least a brief pause, during which, you guessed it, you run!

#4- Firearms - The reason I list firearms before the remaining topics is one of range and staying at a safer distance to avoid personal injury, even though this is controversial to many people. I do not personally carry concealed, a decision that is partially due to legality in the state I work (I can carry in my home state, but not the neighboring one where I spend a lot of time) and partially by request of my wife, who does not like guns. That said, I probably would carry if things were different, mostly so that I would have the experience of carrying when I went somewhere I felt the need. If someone doesn't carry all the time and practice with it regularly, I think it is possibly more dangerous to do so "on occasion" and I would urge them not to do so. I would ALWAYS encourage someone who does carry to have a non-lethal spray as above to use first.

With a firearm, the second you draw it, you are in an lethal force situation. It should never, ever, come out unless there is definite and deadly threat to you or your loved ones. Generally, this means your assailant has a lethal weapon (gun, knife, baseball bat, etc) and has threatened to use it. It can never be brought out to scare someone off as, once it has drawn, YOU may be considered to be assaulting THEM! Compound this with the fact that, if you shoot someone, you have to deal with all the emotional trauma this will bring (no matter how justified you were. Ask an Iraq War veteran if you doubt that this can mess you up!) And, of course, the legal problems that ensue. Suffice to say that, while I think this is a viable form of defense, you SERIOUSLY need to learn all you can about it and train in how and when it can be used properly.

#5- Close quarter weapons - There is an old saying that "Nobody wins in a knife fight." Friends of mine, while teaching stage combat, illustrate this point well by having the combatants wear white t-shirts, then fight with giant markers instead. The resulting marks illustrate well how likely both parties are to receive injury. If your opponent doesn't have a knife, you might seem to have an advantage, but realize you will be the one using what is in most places considered a lethal weapon. I do see value in items like the kubotan when facing an unarmed assailant, but all close quarters weapons require some serious training. Keep in mind you need to be able to bring it into play, as well. The fastest weapon to draw is the one in your hand. And expect that if you are this close you may be injured.

Oh, and I don't consider most of the weapons I have the most practice with, like the sword, to be viable defensive items for everyday situations. It is unlikely you'll have it on you when you need it, and less likely a criminal will mess with you if he sees it on your hip. Some folks may have them around for home defense, but I only think that will work out well if you really, seriously, know how to use a sword. Even then, you're screwed if the guy breaking in has a gun.

#6- Close quarter martial arts - I consider this the last place you want to be, within striking distance of an assailant. It may quickly shift into a bad situation and will almost always require far more skill and training on your part. That said, I think everyone, especially women, need some experience here. Not a black belt in any Asian art, but experience with a handful of quick, effective, injure and escape techniques. Remember, everything here is about getting away, not having a kick-boxing match with some stranger. Leave the movie antics to Hollywood. Break a knee or crush and arch and GET AWAY!

What else can you tell me that may not be common knowledge?

If ever you are involved in a situation you need to defend yourself, it will likely mess you up emotionally and mentally. Please, get the help you need. Many of us have experienced the unpleasantness of injuring a friend, even slightly, and felt the guilt that follows. Compound that and add in the complete loss of personal security and you can begin to understand the impact. If the assault comes from someone who is known, it's even worse. Plan for this to be part of your defensive strategy.

Practice what you think you will use. Even if it's getting out that can of pepper spray, building up the muscle memory will be helpful. In a violent situation, your mind often goes to what is called by some the "lizard brain", that instinctive survival state. If you haven't practiced with your defenses, you may not actually utilize them no matter how good they might be.

You will note that I did not include "Call 911" in the defensive options. While I respect the police and what they can do when directly confronted with a bad situation, they will take at least a few minutes to get to you. You won't have minutes to wait. Get away, THEN call 911. Let them help you with the aftermath, whatever that might be.

Finally, remember your single best defense is that mass between your ears. Use it and be safe.

Dressing for the season

It has certainly been a few weeks since I posted, so we'll try and get back on track her somewhat regularly. Today's post is inspired by questions a friend had on winter camping

What is it?

When we go out into the elements these days, we often only think of it in short bursts. Running to the car, heading into work or a shop, checking the mail. Sometimes we're out for an hour or so shoveling, working hard and keeping warm. But what if you have to walk some distance? Maybe your car stops on a back road, maybe you're snowed in, or maybe you want to get some exercise by taking a walk. Knowing how to dress for the weather will certainly make everything far more bearable! This becomes more vital when we look at things like skiing or (for those of us slightly off our rocker) winter camping.

Why do it?

You don't want to freeze, do you? ;) Seriously, this is an area I think is getting lost as we spend less time outdoors. There was a time when most people spent at least a little time outside each day, either tending to livestock, visiting the market, fetching water, or any number of other tasks. In our age of central heating and warm automobiles, fleece jackets, and indoor entertainment, we often feel like we can best Mother Nature. All too quickly we can learn how wrong we are. Frostbite is certainly the first thing people think about, but hypothermia is a far more insidious threat, and one that can lead to lethargy, unconsciousness, and death. Good reasons to bundle up!

How did I learn it?

Yep, you guessed it - Boy Scouts. This blog sometimes reads like an add for the BSA, but it remains a great place for the passing of practical skills to boys and young men. The Girl Scouts could be similar (and in some troops, is) though I fear they too often focus on "feminine" skills to the exclusion of outdoor skills. Of course, the popularity of these and other outdoor organizations has waned in popularity amongst the youth amidst other options, so many of these skills are ones we need to pick up as adults.

As a Scout, I was fortunate that my Troop had a very motivated Scoutmaster. He was of the firm opinion that we should do an outdoor event each month, including the winter months. Additionally, our council held a "Klondike Derby" which required outdoor camping and practice of skills. The base of all this was, of course, staying warm!

How do you learn it?

I'll provide you some key points, though I think there is some variation from person to person. We each have our own unique make-up and chemistry that will change what we might feel comfortable wearing. My wife is always colder than I am, so when and how much she wears is certainly different from my choices, though I feel the basics remain the same. Experiment, but do so wisely! Cold related injuries are some of the worst, and also some of the easiest to come by. When cold moves to pain, GET WARM FAST. If it moves to no longer being cold, it might be too late to save things like toes and fingers, or worse yet, your life. Don't mess around with this. Seriously, try it out near home, spending an hour or so out in your yard when you can move back inside if you get cold. Sledding, winter walks, snowshoeing, and skiing at a commercial slope are good ways to test out your gear before doing something like a weekend long camping trip.

Of course, everything here is my opinion and should not be taken as scientific fact. I hold no responsibility if your toes fall off.

Materials - In this age of microfibers and nylon, there is an understandable urge to use the "latest and greatest" out there. I can sympathize and have, more than once, jumped on the wagon myself. However, after many years, many materials, and lots of exposure, I have yet to find anything that beats wool. Wool is natures miracle fiber, especially in winter. It will help absorb moisture, yet has a level of water resistance even after all the natural lanolin has been removed. More importantly on the cold front, it can keep you warm even when completely soaked! This benefit cannot be overstated and has yet, to my knowledge, to be duplicated by modern materials. Of course, when wet, wool becomes heavy, but heavy is better than dead, and avoiding it getting wet in the first place certainly helps.

That leads, quite naturally, to staying dry. Often winter equals snow, at least in may areas, and if not snow, ice and rain. This is where modern technology shines. Fabrics like GoreTex and its "descendants" provide a mostly waterproof barrier that greatly reduces the chances of you getting wet. I say mostly as seams are a weak point in any waterproof clothing. Proper care and taping helps considerably, as do treatments (which we'll talk about in a minute) but be aware anything can wear down. I prefer GoreTex and the like to things like PVC and vinyl as GoreTex will allow moisture to escape your body without allowing it in. Thus, when you work hard, some of the excess heat and sweat can get out, while PVC rainsuits keep that in and result in your being wet from the inside instead of the outside. Using a light GoreTex style outer layer will help keep the under layers dry and doing their job.

Additionally, waterproof garments tend to be windproof. Wind can kill really quickly, which is why folks make such a big deal out of windchill at this time of year. That's because the wind will blow all the warmth right out of you, no mater how many layers you might wear. Wool does provide some wind protection, depending on the weave, but a good windproof outer garment will do wonders to keep your body warming itself up.

There are other places for modern fabrics, like wicking undergarments, which I'll touch on in a bit. Fleece is another one that I do utilize, though normally in coordination with others. Fleece is light, somewhat water repellent, and great insulation. I prefer thinner fleeces as they don't cause you to overheat as fast and are easy to remove, though I tend to limit it to one layer that can be removed, as we'll discuss below.

The one fabric I almost entirely avoid is cotton. There is an old saying that "Cotton kills", and while that may be an oversimplification, it isn't off the mark. Cotton is fabulous in warmer weather and I certainly wear my share of it in the winter. I have flannel lined jeans I'll wear for going to work, clearing off the car, or hanging around the house. However, if I intend to spend more than 15 minutes outside, except on the driest days, the cotton stays in the house. Cotton absorbs water very well, as evidenced by it's heavy use in things like towels and cotton balls. Once it has that water, it is reluctant to give it up and becomes very heavy, more so than a similar weight wool, yet it no longer insulates. In fact, it becomes a channel to cool your body off very quickly! Please, leave the jeans inside when you're spending any time outdoors in the winter.

Layers - Your mother always told you to dress in layers, and with good reason. Not only do layers allow you to vary how much you are wearing at any point in time, they also create additional pockets of air that help insulate. As odd as it sounds, air is really what is keeping you warm, whether it is the air trapped between fibers of something like wool pants or the air between that long underwear and your long sleeve shirt. Your body heats that air up and the layers keep it trapped inside. See, your mom was right, even if you found it annoying.

I prefer multiple small layers. While I have my heavy-duty winter coat (a blanket-weight wool trench coat, actually), if I'm spending a lot of time outdoors, it isn't what I grab. Instead, I dress in numerous lighter layers. These allow me to not only stay warm, but if I start to sweat, I can take a layer off keep from getting too drenched inside my clothes. I like to start with long johns (sometimes these are cotton, though I prefer silk or modern fibers) and build out. Consider using vests or short sleeve shirts (again, close to the body and less likely to get wet) as you'll find that keeping your chest warm is fairly critical. Arms and legs are a little more used to being cold, so can often do with a little less cover than your torso can. Additionally, you'll restrict your movement less in this manner. This is one of the places I will often wear fleece, in the form of a vest, though I recently picked up a wool vest that I absolutely love and now tend to grab first. Build outward and figure out how many layers you personally need. For me, the number is about 4-6 on my torso, 3-4 on my arms, and 2-4 on my legs, depending on what I'm going to be doing and how cold it is. It sounds like a lot, but with thinner layers it's actually pretty easy to do and still move around.

Hands and feet - The areas that, arguably, are in the greatest danger are those furthest away from your torso. When you hear about frostbite cases, it is invariably in the toes or fingers. When I mentioned cold turning to pain earlier, this is where you're most likely to feel it (or possibly the tip of your nose, but we'll get there). Everything listed above about materials and even layers applies here as well. First, the fingers.

Gloves seem like a given, but not all gloves are created equal! In fact, if you look at the cultures that have faced the most extreme cold, you will see that very few of them actually use (or used) gloves very often. The mitten is the preferred winter hand garment. This is because it puts all your fingers in one place to share warmth. Of course, we now feel the need for fingers to do detailed work, but being honest there is so little we need our fingers free for while outdoors. Yes, when driving a car we might find it more convenient, or doing something like building a fire it becomes easier with our fingers free, but consider whether you'll be doing short (under a minute) tasks with your finger where it might not be better to have a mitten that you take off then put back on, allowing your fingers to warm each other.

It might also make sense to wear a thing glove liner under a pair of mittens, or look at some of the mitten/glove combination. I prefer the fingerless style myself as my fingers share more warmth that way and I get greater manipulation. If you do wear gloves, be picky, read reviews, and make sure there's a little extra room in there for that all important air. Skintight gloves might be nice for driving, but they're really just a barrier between you and the cold steering wheel. They won't keep your hands warm for long outdoors. Of course, an outside layer that is waterproof is great when it's wet or snowy, so factor that in as well.

Your feet are often a bigger problem. Honestly, if your fingers get cold, you can tuck them inside your coat, under your arm pits, or in your pants if need be (yes, it might seem a bit vulgar, but keeping your fingers takes precedence over propriety, in my opinion). Your feet spend all their time far away from your core and are tough to tuck under your arms unless you're very flexible. Now we're in the realm of boots, which can be a bit of a minefield in which to tread. Let's go down the path I've followed before.

For an outer shell, I prefer leather, though I think some great work has been done on the combination leather/fabric boots in recent years. This is partially a care factor for me as I only have to think of one type of treatment. There are sprays designed to work on both, so this is really a preference point. Leather has a lot of give and flexibility that allows you to move over rough terrain, it can be fairly well waterproofed, and does provide a slight barrier to the cold. Your only other real option is rubber, which I find works well for short periods outside but isn't giving enough for anything more than tromping through the snow. Additionally, without insulation, rubber gets cold really quickly. Conversely, it traps moisture more than leather and can end up soaking your feet in your own sweat.

When it comes to what's below the boot's shell, there are really only 2 things to consider here - insulation and waterproofing. Waterproofing may seem an odd thing to mention as we've already talked about the outer layer, but many boots now come with a GoreTex (or similar) inner liner. This is added protection and I find it worth the extra cost. I consider it insurance on keeping my feet dry, and I get cranky when my feet are wet. Insulation works much like other areas we've talked about above. Better to have a thin layer in the boot with additional layers underneath than one really thick one. If you're just wearing it out to clear some snow, this isn't a big deal, but more than an hour or so and it's nice to have the option to remove or add more if needed. Additionally, too much insulation tends to lead to a stiffer boot.

We have to wear something between the boot and our toes, and that something is socks. I am a fan, not surprisingly, of wool socks and actually wear them year round. There are a variety available, many with modern materials incorporated to add stretch and make them more washer friendly. Consider wearing more than one as well, possibly a thinner sock with a thicker one over top. This is something to consider when buying your boot, too, as you don't want something that is too tight. Tight boots will cause cold spots on your feet, so wear your extra socks when you go to try your boots on at the store.

Topping it all off - By far the most important thing to do is cover your head. The vast majority of body heat (between 70-85%, depending on where you look) escapes through your head, so capturing that is critical. Consider as well that your nose, chin, lips, and neck are hanging out there as well. For moderately cold days without a lot of wind or wet, I will use a knit or fleece hat that is easy to remove and tuck away if I get too warm. This is one layer you can always quickly remove for some quick cooling down while exerting yourself. If I'm camping, I prefer a thick hat (I have a great fur one) that works well when not moving around a lot, and a thinner one for exertion. Having a waterproof hood to pull up is also great to have.

At times when it's really bitter, I'll add either a scarf or a balaclava to the mix. A few years ago I picked up a balaclava for motorcycling (I'll ride year round, though a lot less in the winter) that is windproof and amazing at keeping my nose and neck warm, even at 20 degrees and 75 mph. You can easily move it down to ease breathing if needed, though breathing through fabric isn't as bad as your brain tends to tell you. And for those of us with facial hair, it prevents the icicles that tend to form in mustaches!

What else can you tell me that may not be common knowledge?

Take care of your gear and it will take care of you. I like to treat any new boots I get with waterproofing right after I get them, regardless of what the manufacturer did to them. Then I break them in (at least a week of heavy wear) and treat them again. Every few months, they get shined and treated, always with special attention to the seams. Waterproof outer garments get washed with a treatment like Tech Wash yearly or as needed. Follow wash and care instructions on garments, they're there for a reason (though I do wash all my wool, with Woolite, but I do not tumble dry).

Figure out your safety points and don't exceed them. Practice makes perfect, so don't rush out for a full weekend of winter camping without a few shorter outings to get a grip on what you can handle. Most of all, have fun!

Preparing the inside of your car for winter driving

What is it?

There's a list of things to be done to your car when prepping for the winter. snow tires, anti-freeze service, lighter weight oil, winter wipers...the list isn't too long and not always applicable to every vehicle. Some of you may be living in areas where winter is what we in New England call "fall". I want to speak instead about the things we can take with us as we drive during the colder months in the event something goes awry.

Why do it?

Being stuck somewhere with a flat tire, a dead battery, or worse is never fun. During the colder months, it can be downright dangerous! A little bit of money, some pre-planning, and you'll be a lot happier. Years ago (OK, decades ago) while we lived in Ohio, my father got stuck on the way home in a massive snow storm. It took him over 6 hours to do a 30 minute commute. Fortunately, he had a full tank of gas and had taken some precautions, many of which I think get ignored by the modern traveler. We expect gas stations on every corner to be open 24 hours, roads to be plowed minutes after the first flake is spotted, and AAA to have response times better than Dominoes pizza. Hopefully, all 3 are always true, but reality is a cruel mistress.

How did I learn it?

I know I keep saying it, but Boy Scouts had a big impact on my urge to be ready for whatever can happen. "Be Prepared" is a motto that tends to stick with you. There have been times in my life where I've forgotten to follow that motto and I've always regretted it. With my first car, a few things always got carried. Now, I'm more prepared than ever, probably over-prepared, but it provides a level of comfort I feel is worth the loss of cargo space. I'm continually looking at how I can better refine my needs.

How do you learn it?

I'll give you some of the key things I carry and why. Hopefully others will weigh in with their thoughts.

To prepare we have to think about what can happen and look at the likelihood and duration of the problem. These will give us areas to tackle. Most will be mechanical, some environmental, and maybe a few catastrophic. We'll begin with a list of everything I carry with me, then we'll talk about why I do it. I'll skip those items that are standard on most cars (spare tire, jack, etc), though I will mention them in some of the areas below.

Motor club membership (I have AMA, many use AAA)
Jumper cables
Flares
Tire repair kit
Wagan PowerDome
5 Gallons of gas (whenever traveling more than 50 miles)
basic tool set (metric, as that is what my truck uses)
windshield washer fluid
pre-mix anti-freeze (50/50)*
flashlights (2)
multi-tool
"escape" or rescue tool
shovel*
sand*
atlas
GPS
ice scraper (2)*
hatchet and small saw
first aid kit
hat and gloves
spare sweatshirt
wool blanket*
winter boots*
rain poncho (2)
cell phone
Nalgene water bottle
trash bags
candle lantern
lighter (2)

Aside from those marked with the *, these items remain in my truck all year long. I actually carry a lot more than this, but these I consider the bare minimum. Many of them reside in a single backpack that can be easily moved around the vehicle, or taken with me into another car, etc. My wife has a very similar setup in her car. It takes up surprisingly little room when all put together, and much can fit into the existing small spaces in your vehicle (glovebox, wheel well, etc).

So, why all this stuff?

Mechanical issues - the things most likely to happen are problems with your car. They can happen anytime, but a few are more likely in the winter. As I mentioned above, prepping your vehicle for winter is a REALLY good idea. Part of the benefit of this is it makes you look at some of the critical areas of your car and make certain it can handle the season. A good tune-up will also help in this. If your mechanic can catch a problem before it happens all the better! Changing tires for snow tires means someone will have seen the tires before you drive on them.
Of course, things still go wrong. A dead battery or flat seems most likely. A flat tire can be dealt with by having a spare in good repair and a decent jack. The battery is a little tougher. In an area with other vehicles, you can likely get a jump, but only if you have jumper cables. What if no one is around? This is why I like the Wagan PowerDome, since it is a stand alone unit. Additionally, it includes a radio and an air compressor, both very useful tools. Finally, the inverter means you can charge cell phones or other devices if your car is dead.
I like having tools so I can deal with stuck hoses, air filters, etc. Even if you don't know a lot about car maintenance, someone may stop to help and not have tools themselves. Having a flashlight or 2 (since one could go dead) to light your way, flares to let others know you have a problem, and extra fluids in case you overheat is further insurance.
If you don't have AAA or an equivalent (I use AMA as I'm a motorcyclist, but the coverage is very similar), get it. It is really worth the annual fee to have a safety net when you need it.

Environmental issues - snow, ice, sleet, freezing rain...none of these are pleasant while driving, but are a reality for many of us. They come with other possibilities like getting stuck, frosted windshields, and slick driving conditions. A shovel for getting snow out from around your tires is invaluable as even a well plowed parking lot may leave your car blocked in a snow bank. Scrapers are great, though often break, so I carry 2. Since I drive a pickup, I carry sand in the bed of the truck, and some of that can be shoveled out to aid in traction on icy spots. And don't forget that trees weighed down by heavy snow and ice can break and block your way, especially on rural routes. A saw or hatchet can make quick work of these obstacles, not to mention warming you up a bit for your efforts.

Catastrophic issues
What if any of the above happens in the middle of nowhere? Or if there's a massive weather emergency that has all the emergency services, including AAA, tied up for hours? Worse yet, what if you have an accident, either alone or another vehicle? These are all things we hope never happen, but we're better off if we prepare.
Certainly you can't expect to fix everything that might happen in such circumstances. This is why I list a cell phone as invaluable. Calling for help is critical, just make sure it's charged and ready to go! A cheap, pre-paid phone that is left in the car isn't a bad idea, either.
If you're stuck in your car (or out of it) when it's cold, extra clothing may be the difference between life and death. I leave gloves, a hat, and boots in the car in case I'm even stuck wearing dress clothes when something goes wrong. Leather-soled dress shoes won't serve me well and may plant me on my butt! If I need to sit in the car for any period of time, a wool blanket helps a lot, and a long-lasting candle lantern will provide light and even some small amount of warmth with little risk of fire.
When you're out of the car and it's raining, a poncho is great and also keeps some heat in. Trash bags can be placed on snow to keep your clothing dry, used to cover broken windows, or as a way to keep either wet things contained or dry things dry.
In the event you need to get out of a vehicle in an accident, I like having a rescue tool within reach to cut the seatbelt and/or break out a window. Cheap money for a little more piece of mind. A basic first aid kit can deal with some of the after effects if you find yourself in an accident.
Finally, I like to have water on hand as you can't go very long without it. During the winter, water goes in and out of the car with me, lest it freeze. It's fine when you run into a store for an hour or 2, but longer than that and it comes with me. I do also carry a steel cup that I could use to melt snow with my candle lantern, but that may be more extreme for some of you. :)

What else can you tell me that may not be common knowledge?

Various stats show that you're likely to be in an accident every 6 years, with an average of 6 million happening a year. Most of those will be minor, but in the winter even a minor setback can be difficult. Personally, I like to be ready whenever possible and work to reduce risk where I can. Little things like proper maintenance and refilling your tank before you're on 'E' help. Why not take a few more steps to get safely to your destination, even if it takes longer than you expected?

One final word of caution to everyone who thinks 4-wheel drive means you won't get stuck. If you hit ice, it doesn't matter how many wheels have power, they all start spinning. Take some time to practice with it and realize it doesn't mean you should drive faster than everyone else!

Basic sewing

What is it?

Putting needle and thread together to make clothing helped elevate our species up the chain of civilization. Nearly everything you wear has stitching involved, from hat to shoes. For now, we're talking about the basic hand-sewing kind.

Why do it?

Ever lost a button, or had a pair of pants that was just a little too long? Mom eventually gets sick of you calling her for help, and these days you're unlikely to find one of your friends who can stitch for you, so why not learn how yourself? It's a heck of a lot cheaper than throwing away that sweater!

How did I learn it?

Around the time I was 10, my mother decided (as she did with many such things) that her boys should know how to do their own sewing repairs. Thus were we shown how to do basic hand stitches and attaching a button using pieces of old sheets. This certainly wasn't elegant, but it meant we did all our own simple repairs moving forward, making us better at it. One of the first things I did was take my very worn and abused sock monkey and do some serious repairs. When I was done it more resembled a mummy than a monkey, but it helped me understand the basics.

Eventually, mom sat me down in front of a machine and made me learn how to make my own costumes (I was 18 and working at the local Renaissance Faire), but we'll save that for a future post, shall we?

How do you learn it?

Like so much of life, practice is key. But this one is cheap and easy. First, you need a few supplies. Go off to Joann Fabrics, Wal-Mart, or your mom's sewing box, and gather the following:

- Sewing needles (for right now, assume that most needles are essentially the same, but don't get TOO big of a needle. Look for those around 2 inches and you should be fine)
- Thread - pick black or white, for ease. Choose "all purpose" for this
- scissors - sharp is better (not the point, but the blades), standard scissors are fine
- fabric - Old sheets or t-shirts are good for this

First, go watch this video on threading the needle.

Now try making a few stitches. Start from one side of the material, stick the needle through, pull it almost all the way in, then stick the needle back down into the fabric. Do this a few more times, in one side, out the other. Now, even though you've only done one piece of fabric, you've done a stitch! It may not look pretty, it may not bee in a straight line, but you're sewing. It really is that simple.

Now take the fabric, put 2 pieces together, and do the same thing about 1/2" in from the edge. This time, after you first pull the thread through the pieces, go back down about 1/8" further along the edge. Now, run the needle through the small loop of thread prom your first past, right by the knot in the thread. Pull the rest of the thread through that loop and pull it all tight, anchoring the thread in place. Now start stitching along, trying to maintain that 1/8" distance 1/2" in from the edge. When you get down to about 3-4" of thread, push the needle through to the side where you first started. Take the needle and slide it under one of the stitches, then pull tight. Do the same thing under the new stitch you just made, but before you pull it tight, loop under from the same direction creating a loop of thread. Push your needle through this loop and pull everything tight to make a knot. Congratulations, you've just joined 2 pieces of fabric by sewing!

Some other nice tutorials to help get you going:
Sewing on a button
Hemming a pair of pants

What else can you tell me that may not be common knowledge?

Once you get these basics down, you can do a lot more with sewing. Embroidery, cross-stitch, and other needle arts are really just forms of sewing. Buttons become simple, and you might eventually find you want to take on bigger projects. That's when sewing machines come in handy, but there will always be a place for hand sewing!